IUAD, fashion and design academy in Naples opened the annual exhibition “Between Art and Fashion”created by the students at the end of the year characterized by the theme “ANTI FASHION.”

IUAD Naples and the ANTI FASHION Exhibition at the Complesso Monumentale Donnaregina

With the term Antifashion, thoughts immediately fly to the 1960s and 1970s with the arrival of the hippy currents but also the gay and feminist movements, but also and especially to the punk and grunge culture that would soon contaminate the music, fashion, and customs of the time.

Among the sacred symbols of antifashion, Vivienne Westwood , but also Yohi Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Helmut Lang, Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester e Issey Miyake not forgetting the important contribution of Miuccia Prada Who was able in his own way to go beyond stereotypes.

Parliamentarizing with IUAD students however, it also seems clear from the outset that for many of them, the term antifashion, but also fashion, in general, has little to do with mere dressing. Among the proposals made, numerous are those that want to externalize feelings and soul, thus choosing not to adapt to trends and tendencies, but rather to express themselves through their clothing.

Intrapersonal and interpersonal relationships become the beating heart of expression and creativity, giving life to creations and outfits, but also to details, decorations or new ways of wearing timeless garments. The heart is embroidered extrapolated from the chest, the limits that bind us become wings ready to let go, the exaggerated, overbearing, light and ethereal tulle becomes in its own way an element of rebellion in self-expression.

28 outfits made by the students, brought together along with 18 garments loaned for the occasion by the Mazzini Archives including dresses from the most acclaimed collections of Vivienne Westwood, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, Martin Margiela o Miuccia Prada . The Mazzini Research Archives are a true Italian excellence that has collected and cherishes 400,000 garments and accessories . An invaluable heritage, an incredible stylistic legacy at the fingertips, literally, of students (as in quasto case), professionals or fashion and style enthusiasts.

The mission of the Mazzini Research Archives goes beyond collecting garments that have made fashion history, but aims to make itself available to the new lever of the fashion system. No museum climate, but rather garments and accessories that can be touched, studied, as well as observed. A way, to ensure transmission, and to help young talents and creatives in the study and development of their own creations.

Antifashion, an exhibition that opened June 28 and was created under the artistic direction, curatorship and staging by Pasquale Esposito and Francesco Maffei, professors at IUAD, will be on view until July 4 at the Complesso Monumentale Donnaregina in Naples.

During the opening night of the exhibition, we met with Michele Lettieri, president of IUAD with whom we exchanged a few words.

How did this year’s theme come about? The idea came from Francesco Maffei and Pasquale Esposito, the faculty members who also curated this exhibition. There has also been an open collaboration that has enabled the creation of a series of workshops within the Academy. The concept of Anti-Fashion came about because, in the era in which we live, in my opinion it really fit us as a movement of cultural inspiration. The exhibition is meant to be an untethering from a fashion that may seem futile and wants to transfer a concept of culture to cultural environments such as this one present in the Donna Regina Museum.

What do you think is the strength of your school? Hard to say. We carry forward in a strong way what is the culture of fashion and fashion history, fashion management and the technology that revolves around the fashion world, always maintaining the ability of the Italians of “savoir faire.”Savoir faire makes it possible to make a thing, really beautiful, and this has always distinguished us.

Being here in Naples, we cannot fail to mention Neapolitan tailoring. What role does Neapolitan tailoring play for you? The fashion industry was born in the U.S. with Neapolitan tailors, and that says a lot about its value. I think fashion is done a lot in Naples:in an Italy system, Neapolitan tailoring makes it even stronger.

What advice would you like to give to all young people who would like to pursue a path in fashion? Studying fashion many times frightens, because the fashion world may seem like a reality in which few people really break through, but the truth is that the fashion industry employs millions of people in Italy in various capacities. Studying at a fashion academy such as ours (and others) allows you to enter the industry at different levels, based on aptitude and goals, which can also vary over time. It is important for young people, whatever path they choose, to do it with dedication and commitment.